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Stitch names, hook sizes, and yarn types — the reference sheet every project starts from.

Hook sizes

Thirteen sizes, lace-fine to jumbo — each hook's icon grows with its actual size, paired with the yarn weight and projects it's actually built for.

Hook Size Hook Type Best Yarn Popular Projects
Crochet hook tip, 2.0 mm size 2.0 mm Small steel/aluminum hook Fine / lace yarn Amigurumi, mini flowers, crochet jewelry, lace
Crochet hook tip, 2.5 mm size 2.5 mm Small crochet hook Sport / fine yarn Amigurumi, keychains, small flowers, coasters
Crochet hook tip, 3.0 mm size 3.0 mm Small crochet hook DK / light yarn Amigurumi, pouches, bags, baby items
Crochet hook tip, 3.5 mm size 3.5 mm Standard crochet hook DK yarn Granny squares, tops, baby blankets, amigurumi
Crochet hook tip, 4.0 mm size 4.0 mm Standard crochet hook Worsted / DK yarn Bags, scarves, bucket hats, granny-square projects
Crochet hook tip, 4.5 mm size 4.5 mm Standard crochet hook Worsted yarn Sweaters, bags, blankets, hats
Crochet hook tip, 5.0 mm size 5.0 mm Medium crochet hook Worsted / bulky yarn Blankets, tote bags, sweaters, cardigans
Crochet hook tip, 5.5 mm size 5.5 mm Medium crochet hook Bulky yarn Chunky blankets, sweaters, beanies, bags
Crochet hook tip, 6.0 mm size 6.0 mm Large crochet hook Bulky yarn Chunky blankets, oversized scarves, baskets
Crochet hook tip, 6.5 mm size 6.5 mm Large crochet hook Bulky / super bulky Thick blankets, rugs, baskets
Crochet hook tip, 8.0 mm size 8.0 mm Large crochet hook Super bulky yarn Chunky blankets, floor rugs, large baskets
Crochet hook tip, 9.0 mm size 9.0 mm Jumbo crochet hook Super bulky yarn Giant blankets, chunky rugs, home décor
Crochet hook tip, 10.0 mm+ size 10.0 mm+ Jumbo crochet hook Jumbo / super bulky Giant blankets, oversized baskets, chunky décor

Common hook types

Besides size, you'll also see different hook styles:

Aluminum hook

Lightweight and affordable; very common for everyday projects.

Ergonomic hook

Thicker, comfortable handle; great for long crochet sessions.

Steel hook

Very small sizes, usually for lace and fine crochet.

Tunisian hook

Longer hook; used for Tunisian crochet.

Double-ended hook

Has hooks on both ends; used for certain Tunisian techniques.

Jumbo hook

Very large hook for chunky/super bulky yarn.

Yarn types

The standard weight categories, the hook each one partners with, and what each is actually good for.

0

Lace

Hook partner: 1.5–2.25mm (steel–B-1)

Thread-fine yarn, sometimes true crochet thread rather than yarn at all. Slow to work up but incredibly delicate.

Makes: doilies, fine shawls, edging & appliqué
1

Super Fine

Hook partner: 2.25–3.5mm (B-1–E-4)

Sock, fingering, and baby yarns — smooth and lightweight, with great stitch definition.

Makes: baby garments, socks, lightweight shawls
2

Fine

Hook partner: 3.5–4.5mm (E-4–7)

Sport-weight yarn — a step up from fingering, still light enough to drape well.

Makes: light sweaters, baby blankets, accessories
3

Light

Hook partner: 4.5–5.5mm (7–I-9)

DK and light worsted — one of the most versatile weights on the shelf.

Makes: cardigans, lightweight blankets, market bags
4

Medium

Hook partner: 5.5–6.5mm (I-9–K-10.5)

Worsted, afghan & aran — the default weight behind most beginner patterns.

Makes: sweaters, amigurumi, everyday blankets
5

Bulky

Hook partner: 6.5–9mm (K-10.5–M-13)

Chunky, craft & rug yarn — thick enough to hide small tension mistakes.

Makes: rugs, bath mats, fast weekend blankets
6

Super Bulky

Hook partner: 9–15mm (M-13–P/Q)

Super chunky and roving yarn — grows a project in hours, not weeks.

Makes: one-evening cowls, poufs, chunky throws
7

Jumbo

Hook partner: 15mm+

Jumbo roving, often worked with your arms instead of a hook at all.

Makes: arm-crochet blankets, giant wall hangings

Stitch names & abbreviations

Full name, written abbreviation, the symbol you'll see for it on a crochet chart, and a quick tip for learning each one.

slk

Slip knot

The very first loop on your hook — where every project truly begins.

Tip: leave a short tail before you tighten it, so it sits snug but still slides. ▶ Watch on YouTube ch

Chain

The foundation loop almost every project starts from.

Tip: practice a chain of 20 until every loop is the same size — that's your starting row. ▶ Watch on YouTube sl st

Slip stitch

Nearly flat — joins rounds and moves across stitches without adding height.

Tip: work it into the top of your first stitch to close a round neatly. ▶ Watch on YouTube sc

Single crochet

The shortest, densest stitch. Forms a tight fabric with almost no gaps.

Tip: start here — every other stitch on this list builds on it. ▶ Watch on YouTube hdc

Half double crochet

Sits between sc and dc — a common choice for garments and blankets alike.

Tip: yarn over once before inserting your hook, then treat it like a taller sc. ▶ Watch on YouTube dc

Double crochet

Taller and faster to work up than single crochet, with an open, drapey feel.

Tip: yarn over, pull through two loops, twice — say the count out loud as you go. ▶ Watch on YouTube tr

Treble crochet

Tall and airy — great for open lacy patterns and quick-growing blankets.

Tip: yarn over twice, then count "pull through two" three separate times. ▶ Watch on YouTube MR

Magic ring

A tidy, adjustable loop to start anything worked in the round.

Tip: practice on scrap yarn a few times before starting your first amigurumi head. ▶ Watch on YouTube inc

Increase

Two stitches worked into one stitch, used to widen rounds and rows.

Tip: work two stitches into the exact same spot — used any time a round needs to grow. ▶ Watch on YouTube dec

Decrease

Two stitches worked together as one, used to narrow rounds and rows.

Tip: insert into two stitches before finishing either one — used to shrink a round. ▶ Watch on YouTube

How to join a new yarn

Running out of yarn mid-round is normal — here's how to keep going without a visible seam.

  1. Work to the last stitch before the join

    Complete every stitch up to — but not including — the final pull-through of your last stitch in the old color.

  2. Bring in the new strand

    With two loops left on your hook, yarn over using the new yarn instead of the old one, then pull it through both loops to finish the stitch.

  3. Drop the old strand

    Let the old yarn hang to the wrong side — you'll weave it in later. Keep crocheting with the new strand right away.

  4. Leave a tail on both ends

    Leave 4–6 inches on the old and new strands so you have enough to weave in securely.

  5. Weave in the ends

    Thread each tail onto a yarn needle and weave it through several stitches on the wrong side, changing direction once to lock it in place.

  6. Trim the tails

    Snip close to your work once the ends feel secure and won't pull loose.

How to join yarn — video thumbnail

Watch the full walkthrough for the technique in real time.

Choosing yarn for your project

A few questions worth asking before you buy the skein.

What are you making?

Match the yarn weight to the project — fine yarn for garments with drape, bulky yarn for quick blankets and rugs.

How will it be used or cared for?

For baby items, blankets, and anything that'll be machine-washed, choose a washable acrylic or superwash wool.

Does it need to hold its shape?

Cotton and acrylic blends hold their shape well for bags, baskets, and amigurumi; wool and alpaca drape and stretch more.

What's your budget & yardage?

Check the yardage on the label against your pattern's requirements, and budget for one extra skein for swatching or mistakes.

Skin sensitivity

For anything worn close to the skin — baby items, scarves, cowls — choose soft fibers like cotton, bamboo, or superwash merino over scratchy acrylics.

Stitch definition

Smooth, plied yarns show off textured stitches beautifully; fuzzy or bouclé yarns hide stitch definition but add cozy texture.

Your achievements

Check off each stitch as you learn it, and tick patterns off on the Patterns page as you finish them — your progress is saved right in this browser.

Stitches

0 of 10 stitches learned

  1. Slip knot

    The very first loop on your hook.

  2. Chain (ch)

    The foundation row almost every project starts with.

  3. Single crochet (sc)

    The shortest, densest stitch — your first real fabric.

  4. Half double crochet (hdc)

    A step taller than sc, a step faster to work up.

  5. Double crochet (dc)

    Open, drapey fabric that grows quickly.

  6. Treble crochet (tr)

    Tall and airy, for lace and quick-growing blankets.

  7. Slip stitch (sl st)

    Nearly flat — for joining rounds cleanly.

  8. Magic ring

    A tidy, adjustable start for anything worked in the round.

  9. Increase (inc)

    Two stitches in one, to widen your work.

  10. Decrease (dec)

    Two stitches worked together, to shape and narrow.

Patterns

0 of 0 patterns completed

Head to Patterns and tap the ✓ on any card you've finished — these badges unlock on their own as your count goes up.

  1. First finish

    Complete your very first pattern.

  2. Getting hooked

    Finish 5 patterns.

  3. Pattern explorer

    Finish 15 patterns.

  4. Yarn enthusiast

    Finish 30 patterns.

  5. Master crafter

    Finish 60 patterns.

  6. Completionist

    Finish every pattern in the library.